Laundry Made Simple
You’ve got your own place and have likely discovered that with freedom comes responsibility. An unfortunate side effect of moving out on your own is that you’re responsible for your own laundry. But don’t worry, it’s pretty simple. You really just need a washing machine, dryer, and some sort of laundry detergent.
Like dishwashers, laundry machines range from super basic to high-tech, high-efficiency (HE) models. If you’re lucky enough to have the owner’s manual handy or a guide posted in the laundry room, check out the directions before you get started. If you wouldn’t even know where to start looking, you can track it down online with the model number
Laundry Detergent
Any big box or grocery store will have an entire aisle dedicated to laundry detergent. There are many options, from powder to pods, and from scented to fragrance-free.
Choosing which detergent to use depends on your machine and personal needs. Standard machines can use any detergent, but HE machines use less water and require detergent that is specifically formulated for them. The packaging will indicate if it’s made for HE machines, like in the picture to the left. If you have sensitive skin or allergies, stick with the fragrance-free options.
If you are using pods and have small children around, make sure you put them in a child-proof container or somewhere they cannot reach.
Washing
The basic steps of washing are:
- Checking pockets
- Sorting
- Stain Treatment
- Adding detergent
- Selecting a load size
- Selecting water temperature
Check your pockets: Opening the washing machine to find the remnants of a tissue or the entire contents of your wallet is not a good time. You definitely don’t want a lip balm to make it into the dryer. Trust me.
Sort your clothes: Sort your clothes by color. Some people wash anything with whatever without any issues. Just be aware that some colored or dark clothes may transfer dye to white or lighter laundry; proceed with caution. Discovering you turned all of your whites pink because you washed them with your new red shirt is going to be a bad time.
Here are the general categories:
- Whites/lights: Whites, beiges, and pastels
- Colors/darks: Darker patterns, blacks, blues, and reds
- Towels/sheets: These can usually be washed together if you need to fill out a load
- Blankets: Usually heavy and should be washed by themselves
- Very dirty clothes: The muddy, greasy, or heavily soiled stuff
- Delicates: Lace, silk, etc., should be washed on the gentle/delicate cycle to avoid damaging the fabric
- Wool: Wool-blend items, like socks, blankets, and base layers, may be able to go in the washing machine. Check the labels for washing directions. Pure wool items, like sweaters, need special care and I’ll talk about that in a bit.
Treat any stains: Hopefully, you treated any stains as soon as you noticed them, but sometimes one will sneak through. For basic food and dirt stains, use a stain pre-treater or hydrogen peroxide to treat the stain before washing. Let it sit for at least 5 minutes before washing. For specific stains, this chart from Real Simple can help you figure out the most effective treatment.
Add your detergent: In general, less is more. Not only does using less save money, but too much detergent can leave a residue that attracts dirt.
Add your clothes: Don’t overstuff your machine. If it’s too full, the water can’t effectively move around the clothes to clean them.
Select your load size: Too little water won’t clean your clothes, and too much may waste water and cost you money.
Select your wash temperature: For most loads, you can use either the cold or warm setting.
When should you use the hot water setting? This setting is generally used for whites, towels, sheets, and other items that need to be disinfected or are very dirty. Just remember that hot water can shrink clothing or set stains. Check your clothing labels to make sure they can withstand a hotter wash.
Select your wash setting: My basic machine has four cycles: Soak, Regular, Permanent Press, and Delicate. Your machine may have different settings, and your user manual should have a guide for which one to use and when.
- Regular/Permanent Press: For most laundry, the regular or permanent press settings are sufficient. The difference between the two is that the permanent press cycle has a cool-down cycle before the rinse cycle, which helps keep clothing from getting too wrinkled.
- Delicates/Gentle Setting: This is for delicate clothing that may not hold up to a full washing cycle. The cycle is generally shorter, and there is less agitation.
- Soak: I use this cycle when I want to do a short soak (or longer if I pause the machine) without having to use a tub or a bucket. Your machine may have a similar setting.
Then just close the door or lid and turn the machine on. My machine has a knob I pull out to start. Yours may have push-button settings.
What About Wool or Cashmere?
As I mentioned earlier, some wool socks, blankets, and base layers are made to be washed, just follow the directions for each specific item.
Can you wash a wool or cashmere sweater? You can, but just dumping it in the machine and letting ‘er rip will likely result in felting, the process where wool fibers compress and interlock. Or worse, it looks like it will fit a third-grader.
Since you’re likely wearing a base layer between your skin and the sweater, you probably don’t need to wash it very often. If your sweater gets tagged with dirt or food, you can spot clean or hand wash it with cold water and detergent specially made for wool. Rinse thoroughly and roll it up in a clean towel to push out the water, then dry it flat.
If it’s just a little stale and needs a refresh, you can hang it in the bathroom during a shower. I’ve also had very good luck with tossing it in the dryer for a few minutes on low heat with a very slightly damp rag. However, if your sweater is a treasured birthday present from Grandma or very expensive, the bathroom steam option is your best bet. My wool sweaters are often thrifted, so I can afford to be more daring.
Drying
When your clothes are done washing, they’ll need to be dried. Like the washing machine, dryer settings range from basic to very specific. My dryer has two high heat settings (one timed and one that lets me choose how dry the clothes should be), low heat, and an air fluff cycle. You may have other options.
For most laundry, I find the low heat setting is sufficient. The high heat setting can be used for heavier things like towels, jeans, and sheets. The air fluff cycle is for items you air dry but want to fluff up a bit.
It is very important to remember to clean the dryer lint filter after every use. Not only will the dryer perform better, but lint buildup over time can lead to fire. The filter is typically located just inside the dryer door or on top, near the back. Simply pull it out, remove the lint, and replace.
Things That Should Not Go Into the Dryer
Undergarments: This is a gray area; some people choose to machine-dry bras and underwear. Basic and generally inexpensive undergarments are probably fine. More expensive lingerie should be air-dried, as the heat will break down the elastic over time.
Bath mats with rubber backing: These can be washed on the gentle cycle, but the dryer will melt the rubber and make a mess. You don’t need that in your life.
Anything with embellishments: This can include clothing with decoration or sports shirts with vinyl decals. They may be damaged by heat and should be air-dried.
Almost Done…
When your laundry is dry, it’s time for the most daunting task: folding it and putting it away.
Do your best with fitted sheets. I have yet to master this particular skill, and it’s just going back on the bed anyway.
If you have shirts or other things that are prone to wrinkles, hang them up as soon as possible. The longer something sits in the basket, the more it’ll look like you slept in it.
Everyone has their own favorite way of storing clothing. Choose your fighter and get to work. I find the chore goes faster when I listen to a podcast or watch a show while folding and hanging clothes. Then, put it in your designated storage system.
Recommended Wash Schedule
Wash underwear, base layers, and workout clothes after every wear. However, other garments can go a few wears between washes if they’re not visibly dirty and/or you weren’t sweating excessively.
Here’s are items you can wash less frequently:
Pajamas: Whether it’s a matching flannel top and bottom or an old band t-shirt and shorts, they can go 3 or 4 wears before needing to be washed.
Jeans: Up to 3 wears between washes.
Bras: 2-3 wears between washes. If you can, rotate between 2 or 3 bras to let each one air out and give the elastic a rest.
Sheets/Duvet Covers: Wash sheets and duvet covers at least once a week. If you’ve been sick, wash them with hot water and bleach to disinfect them.
Blankets: If there’s a barrier between you and your blanket (like a top sheet), you can go a couple of weeks without washing it. I freshen mine between washes by tossing them in the dryer with a damp rag for a basic steam cycle.
If you don’t sleep with a top sheet, wash it once a week.
Towels: If you want to get a few uses out of towels before washing them, hang them in a place where they can dry thoroughly before the next use. Wash them after 3-5 uses.
Advanced Laundry Tools
In that same vast laundry aisle, you’ll also find a variety of laundry products. These aren’t technically necessary, but they can level up your laundry game.
Stain pre-treaters: These usually come in a spray, a solid bar, or a stick. If you get something funky on your clothes, treat it as soon as possible to avoid the stain setting.
Oxygen bleach: Products like Oxi-Clean come in a powdered form and are great for soaking nastier stains.
Bleach: Bleach is good for disinfecting sheets and towels after illness and generally brightening whites.
Borax: Borax powder is a great laundry booster, especially if you often have stinky clothes from pets, work or exercise. It’s also great for making whites whiter and treating stains.
Washing Soda: Washing soda (aka sodium carbonate) is another great laundry booster. It helps neutralize hard water minerals, making your laundry detergent more efficient. It’s also a great presoak for really dirty clothes. However, it is alkaline and may be too harsh for delicate fibers like silk or wool.
Hydrogen Peroxide: Hydrogen peroxide is another handy item to have in the war against stains. It’s very effective on blood and sweat stains. You can find pour bottles or spray bottles in the first aid section of your local store. Saturate the stain with hydrogen peroxide and scrub before washing.
Dryer sheets or fabric softener: Dryer sheets and fabric softener make clothes softer and reduce static.
Wait, I Thought Dryer Sheets and Fabric Softener Were Bad?
While using dryer sheets and fabric softener makes laundry smell nice and feel fluffy, please be aware that it can reduce flame resistance on clothing, leave a layer of residue on your clothing and machines, and irritate skin.
If you choose to use dryer sheets, be sure to occasionally wash your dryer’s lint trap with soapy water, rinse, and dry thoroughly to avoid buildup that can cause fire.
If you want the benefits of dryer sheets or fabric softener but want to avoid these issues, there are alternatives. And they’re reusable, so score one for saving money!
- Dryer balls: Wool or silicone dryer balls are great for making clothes feel softer and reducing static.
- DIY dryer sheets: Here is a guide to make your own dryer sheets if you’d rather go that route.
That’s it. Isn’t Clean Sheet Day glorious? If you have a favorite laundry tip, share it in the comments!
Next Up: Basic Housekeeping: How to Maintain a Clean and Organized Space
